Bonemarrow Varuval @ Hoppers Soho
BONEMARROW VARUVAL
Hoppers Soho, London
Suckling pig empanada, jus, pear, parsley and red grape salad. ---- Yesterday @hermionevbrown and I had a day off. We chose to cross off @sabor_ldn and @hopperslondon, the restaurants with constant queues from 6pm, so much so that no matter how dedicated you can be, it seems easier to head elsewhere. Midday on a Wednesday though: No queues, no pressure to rush through your meal in empathy for the poor punters outside; it's the best way to do these restaurants. They're damn good. Both these restaurants are backed by @jks_restaurants, who are partners in @bao_london, @lyleslondon, @bubbledogsuk and @trishnalondon too. You bring up most restaurant groups and it's shortly followed by an imported meat scandal, a 2for1 deal or news that they're shutting 20 sites. From what I can see JKS is very different, they back talent with capital and help make their operation work seamlessly while giving the creatives behind the concept autonomy. They don't encourage the restaurants to roll out 6 sites in a year, they don't interfere with the menus and most crucially, they don't encourage the chefs cut corners when it comes to supply. The last point I can say with conviction as I recently brought Bao and @xu_london onto @foodchain__. They have accounts with one supplier, for one product only, simply because it's the best out there. Honestly, I was surprised to see this, I expected due to their constant stream of customers and foolproof combinations of flavour they would have rested on their laurels a bit by switching to a pork supplier that gave them a bigger profit margin, but no. --- Every JKS restaurant which I try I'm reluctant to love - as if just because it's one of a hugely successful group, it deserves to be critiqued more harshly - yet they always impress. Headed up by four siblings and to most outside of the hospitality industry unknown, no one can deny that they have a magic touch.
Eaten: Thu, 13 Dec 2018 13:55